Trip Journal

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Smoky Valley Trip-2001   Sandhill Crane Trip-2001

39,000 ACRES OF ELBOW ROOM!

Our first Natural History series trip for 2002 took us to the Nature Conservancy's Tallgrass Prairie Preserve near Pawhuska, Oklahoma on May 21.  It is the world's largest single tract of tallgrass prairie not in private ownership.   Eventually, most of this property will become open bison range.  Right now, about half of it is still stocked seasonally with cattle, as it was for decades during its prior existence as the Chapman/Barnard Ranch.  The other half is home to nearly 2,000 bison!

A big show of penstemons!
Large-flowered Penstemons at Cowley State Fishing Lake
- All photos by Jim Mason

 On our way down, we stopped at Cowley State Fishing Lake, east of Arkansas City, Kansas.  Nestled in a steep-sided rocky valley in the southern Flint Hills, it is a very scenic spot.  When we were there, we got to see a spectacular show of Large-flowered Penstemon (Penstemon grandiflorus).  This extravagant blue wildflower is a favorite of bumblebees.

Recent rains produced a delightful variety of wildflowers, including spider milkweed, antelopehorn milkweed, pale poppy mallow, larkspur, daisy fleabane, violet oxalis, rose verbena and marbleseed.  The flower-finding was so rich, we hated to leave!  But, we hit the road again and made our way down to Pawhuska for lunch and a look at the historic downtown area.

After lunch, we drove up to the Preserve.  Public roads enter the property from the north, west and south.  Signs next to the cattle guard crossings advise visitors to remain in their car when entering the bison range.  As we drove along, we watched for the bison herd, and spotted several hundred of them on a ridge about 1/4 mile west of the road.  Unfortunately, that was our best view of the bison on the trip!

 

We were met at the headquarters building by two volunteer guides, Dennis and Kim.  They gave us a tour of the ranchhouse, which is over 70 years old, told us about the history of the property before it was acquired by the Nature Conservancy in 1989 and the plan for managing the preserve.

Tallgrass preserve headquarters

The prairie is rich in its details.
Prairie Irid was only one of many
wildflowers seen on the nature trail.

After touring the headquarters and checking out the gift shop, we hiked the one mile nature trail just across the road.  The path led us up to a hilltop with a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside, practically all of which lay within the preserve.  A few limestone blocks gave us a place to stop, rest and take in the view.

A very cooperative dickcissel sang from his perch a short distance off the trail, giving the whole group an excellent view of him.

The path back led us through a valley with cross-timbers oak forest.  Huge bur and chinquipin oaks made an impressive canopy.  The forest floor had a quality assortment of understory plants also.

We left the preserve via the north road, which led us back into Kansas and through the scenic Caney River valley.  But first we had to get by this character!

Cattle crossing guard!
"What do you mean, mooove?"

We spent the night in Independence and got an early start the next day.  We drove out to Elk City Lake to hike part of the 15 mile nature trail on its north shore.   This trail can be accessed at either end or in the middle.  We opted to start in the middle and walk east.  The trail largely stays on contour, winding among huge hunks of the limestone ledge which makes the caprock on the north side of the lake.   Columbines grew from crevices in the sides of these blocks, making for an interesting hanging garden.  A summer tanager and a late flock of cedar waxwings livened up the canopy overhead.

Elk Falls
Our last stop was at Elk Falls, where we explored the falls for which the town is named and a recently restored historic bridge built in 1892 which is just downstream.

Our group at the Elk Falls bridge.
Front row L to R: Helen, Pat and Sherry
Back Row: Gary, Connie, Richard, Cheryl, Dana and Sandra
Taking the picture: Jim

 

Questions or comments?  Send Email to Jim Mason Spidey
Or write us at: 
Great Plains Nature Center
6232 E. 29th Street North
Wichita, KS 67220-2200             Call:  316-683-5499            Fax:  316-688-9555